Purple Grape Bobble Crochet Bedspread
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For experienced crocheters who enjoy complex shaping, fine detail, and ambitious construction
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A rewarding 12+ hour journey — perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.
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Magic ring & first rounds
Building the shape
Assembly in progress
Finished & ready!
About This Purple Grape Bobble Crochet Bedspread
This grape crochet blanket pattern turns every motif into a little bunch of fruit you can touch: 17 plump purple grapes, two veined green leaves and two curly tendrils, all sitting on a round cream lace circle. Each grape is a tiny stuffed ball, so the bunch stands up from the blanket like the real thing. A few squares carry only a leaf and a tendril, which gives the eye a rest and makes the whole bedspread look like a grape vine climbing over the bed.
Each motif starts as a circle of double crochet with a ring of open windows and a solid edge. Then corner rounds of treble and double crochet turn the circle into a square, and a band of eyelets frames it. The grapes are made one by one and sewn onto a small purple base, so the bunch keeps its triangle shape. The leaves have five pointed lobes with raised veins in surface slip stitch. The squares are joined with a fine raised seam, and a cream lace band with plum purple scallops finishes the edge.
A queen bedspread takes about 220 to 240 hours and a throw about 100 to 115. One grape motif with its bunch, leaves and tendrils takes about 150 minutes. This is an advanced project for a crocheter who loves small 3D pieces, is happy to make more than a thousand grapes, and does not mind a lot of sewing.
Materials
- DK weight cotton yarn, cream about 4,100 m for a queen (21 balls of 100 g / 200 m), or 2,000 m for a throw (10 balls)
- DK weight cotton yarn, plum purple about 1,950 m for a queen (10 balls), or 950 m for a throw (5 balls)
- DK weight cotton yarn, sage green about 900 m for a queen (5 balls), or 420 m for a throw (3 balls)
- Polyester fiberfill about 150 g for a queen, or 75 g for a throw (a small pinch per grape)
- 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook for the motifs, joining and border
- 3.25 mm (D-3) crochet hook for the grapes, bunch bases, leaves, stems and tendrils
- Stitch markers, sewing pins, tapestry needle and scissors
Abbreviations
MRmagic ringchchainsl stslip stitchscsingle crochethdchalf double crochetdcdouble crochettrtreble crochetsc2togsingle crochet 2 stitches together (1 st decreased)sc3togsingle crochet 3 stitches together (2 sts decreased)FLOfront loop onlysurface sl stwith the yarn held behind the piece, insert the hook from the front, pull up a loop and draw it through the loop on the hookspspaceskskipst(s)stitch(es); each ch-1 sp counts as 1 st and each ch-2 sp in the window rnd counts as 2 stsrndroundreprepeatRS / WSright side / wrong sideBefore you start: Make one motif and three grapes first. Block the motif to 21 cm and check the grapes: each one should be about 1.5 cm across. If they are bigger, use a 2.75 mm hook; if they are smaller, use a 3.5 mm hook. Seventeen grapes must fit in the middle of the circle, so settle the grape size before you make more than a thousand of them.
Cream Lace Circle (make 90 for a queen, 42 for a throw)
- Rnd 1: with cream and the 4 mm hook, MR, ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 11 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of ch 3. Pull the ring tight. (12 dc)
- Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each remaining st around, join. (24 dc)
- Rnd 3: ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 10 more times, join. (36 dc)
- Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 10 more times, join. (48 dc)
- Rnd 5 (windows): ch 3, dc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, *dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts; rep from * 10 more times, join. (24 dc and 12 ch-2 windows = 48 sts)
- Rnd 6: ch 3, dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, *dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 10 more times, join. (60 dc)
- Rnd 7: ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 10 more times, join. (72 dc)
- Rnd 8 (solid edge): ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (72 sc) The circle is now about 16 cm across. Do not fasten off.
Squaring the Circle
- Rnd 9 (corners): ch 4 (counts as tr), (tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in same st, *tr in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, tr in next 2 sts, (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in next st; rep from * 2 more times, then work the side once more from tr in next 2 sts to tr in next 2 sts, and join with sl st to top of ch 4. (21 sts per side between the ch-2 corner sps: 2 + 17 + 2)
- Check the math: each side uses 1 corner st + 17 side sts = 18 sts of Rnd 8, and 4 x 18 = 72. The tall tr fill the corners and the short sc sit where the circle already touches the edge of the square.
- Rnd 10: sl st in next tr and in corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each st to next corner sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each remaining st, join. (25 dc per side)
- Rnd 11 (eyelets): sl st in next dc and in corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in next dc, (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 12 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in next dc, (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 12 times, join. (29 sts per side, including 12 eyelets)
- Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, working 3 sc in each corner sp, join. Fasten off. (31 sc per side, counting the corner sc at each end; 128 sc in total) Block to 21 x 21 cm.
Stuffed Grapes (plum purple)
- Rnd 1: with plum purple and the 3.25 mm hook, MR, 6 sc in ring. Pull tight. Work in a spiral without joining from now on; mark the first st of each rnd. (6 sts)
- Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Rnd 3: sc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Stuff the little cup firmly with a small pinch of fiberfill now, while the opening is still wide.
- Rnd 4: sc2tog 6 times. (6 sts) Push in a little more stuffing with the back of the hook if the grape feels soft.
- Fasten off with a 20 cm tail. Thread the tail on the needle, pass it through the FLO of each of the last 6 sts and pull tight to close the hole. Keep the tail for sewing.
- The grape is a firm ball about 1.5 cm across. Make 17 for each grape motif: 1,224 for a queen (72 bunches) or 578 for a throw (34 bunches).
Bunch Base (plum purple)
- Row 1: with plum purple and the 3.25 mm hook, ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sts)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (7 sts)
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (5 sts)
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. (3 sts)
- Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts)
- Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc3tog. (1 st) Fasten off with a 40 cm tail.
- This flat purple triangle is about 4.5 cm wide and 4 cm tall. It hides the cream lace between the grapes and holds the bunch in shape. Make 1 for each grape motif.
Grape Leaves (sage green)
- Rnd 1: with sage green and the 3.25 mm hook, MR, ch 1, 10 sc in ring, join with sl st to first sc. Pull tight. (10 sts)
- Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (20 sts)
- Rnd 3 (5 lobes): *sc in next st, (hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st; rep from * 1 more time. For the 3rd (top) lobe: sc in next st, (hdc, tr) in next st, (tr, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, tr) in next st, (tr, hdc) in next st. Work the first lobe 2 more times, join with sl st to first sc. (40 sts and 5 pointed tips: 8 sts per lobe, 5 x 4 = 20 sts of Rnd 2 used)
- The sc at the start of each lobe makes a small notch, so the leaf gets the five-pointed shape of a real grape leaf. The top lobe is taller because it uses tr.
- Veins: with sage green, work surface sl st from the center ring out to the tip of each lobe, 5 veins in all, keeping the loops loose. Fasten off with a 25 cm tail.
- The leaf is about 5 cm across. Make 2 for each grape motif and 1 for each leaf motif: 162 for a queen or 76 for a throw.
Vine, Stem and Curly Tendrils (sage green)
- Vine bar: with sage green and the 3.25 mm hook, ch 22, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off with a 20 cm tail. (21 sl st) Make 1 for each grape motif.
- Stem: ch 9, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off with a 20 cm tail. (8 sl st) Make 1 for each grape motif and 1 for each leaf motif.
- Tendril: ch 15, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (28 sc) Fasten off with a 20 cm tail. The extra sts make the strip twist into a tight spiral. Make 2 for each grape motif and 1 for each leaf motif: 162 for a queen or 76 for a throw.
- If a tendril does not curl enough, wrap it around a pencil, wet it, and let it dry before you sew it on.
Assembling the Grape Motif
- Lay a blocked square RS up with one side as the top. Pin the bunch base in the middle of the circle, point down, with its top edge (Row 1) about 2 cm above the center ring.
- With the base tail and the needle, sew all around the edge of the base, through the cream dc only, not through the windows of Rnd 5.
- Sew the grapes on in rows from the top: 4 grapes along the top edge of the base, then 4, then 3, then 3, then 2, then 1 at the point. (4 + 4 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 1 = 17) Let each row sit half over the row above, so the bunch looks full and round. Sew each grape with its own tail, going through the base 2 or 3 times at the closed end of the grape.
- Sew the vine bar in a gentle arc just above the bunch, from the eyelet ring on the left to the eyelet ring on the right. Sew the stem from the middle of the vine bar down to the top row of grapes.
- Sew one leaf on each side of the stem, on top of the vine bar, so the leaves cover the outer grapes of the top row. Sew through the center ring and the base of the lobes only, so the tips stay free and 3D.
- Sew the top end of each tendril under a leaf and let it hang down beside the bunch. Tack the spiral to the circle in 2 places so it stays in place but still looks curly.
- Leaf motif: on a plain square, sew 1 stem across the center at an angle, 1 leaf at its top end and 1 tendril at its lower end. No grapes and no base.
Joining the Squares
- Layout: 9 x 10 = 90 squares for a queen (about 200 x 221 cm with the border), or 6 x 7 = 42 for a throw (about 137 x 158 cm with the border).
- Make every 5th square a leaf motif, counting left to right along each row and carrying the count to the next row. That gives 72 grape motifs and 18 leaf motifs for a queen, or 34 grape motifs and 8 leaf motifs for a throw, and the leaf motifs fall on a scattered diagonal.
- Keep all the grape bunches hanging toward the same edge, which becomes the foot of the bed.
- With cream and the 4 mm hook, hold two squares WS together and sl st through the outer loops of each pair of sc, from corner to corner. (31 sl st per side, from corner sc to corner sc)
- Join all the horizontal seams first, then the vertical ones, working through all four corner sc at each crossing.
- The sl st seam makes the thin raised line between the lace squares that you see in the flat lay photo.
Lace Band and Plum Scallop Border
- Rnd 1: with cream and the 4 mm hook, join in any corner. Ch 3, dc in each st around, 1 dc in each seam and 5 dc in each corner st. Join.
- Rnd 2 (mesh): ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), sk next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * around, working (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in each center corner st. If you reach a corner with one st too many, sk 2 sts once. Join to 3rd ch of ch 4.
- Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, working 5 dc in each center corner dc. Count all the sts and add or skip 1 or 2 sts near the corners so the total is a multiple of 6. Join and fasten off cream.
- Rnd 4 (scallops): join plum purple in any st. Ch 1, sc in same st, *sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending with sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts and join with sl st to first sc. Place the sts so a scallop falls on each center corner st and work 9 dc there instead of 7. (every 6 sts make 1 scallop)
- Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in each sc and dc around, working 2 sc in the 4th dc of each scallop and 2 sc in the 5th dc of each corner scallop. Join and fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all purple and green tails on the WS of the square they belong to, under the solid dc rounds, never across the windows or eyelets. Run each tail through two or three dc and back again so it does not show through the cream.
Lay the bedspread flat RS up, mist it with water and pin the plum scallops and the lace band out straight. Do not press the grapes or leaves. Roll each grape between your fingers to make it round again, open the leaf tips, and let everything dry completely before you move it.
Tips for Success
- Make the grapes in big batches while you watch TV, and keep them in a jar. Seventeen grapes go much faster once your hands know the four rounds.
- Use the same small amount of stuffing for every grape. A grape that is too soft looks flat; one that is too full shows the stuffing through the sts.
- Pin all 17 grapes on the base before you sew any of them, then take a photo and copy that bunch on every motif.
- Sew the bunch base on first. It gives you a firm purple surface to sew into, so the grapes do not pull the lace out of shape.
- Block every square before you add the grapes. It is very hard to block a square once the 3D pieces are on it.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- A circle that will not lie flat. Rnds 2 to 7 each add exactly 12 sts. Count 24, 36, 48, 60 and 72 at the end of each rnd; one missing increase makes the circle cup.
- Wrong number of windows. Rnd 5 needs exactly 48 sts from Rnd 4 to give 12 windows. Check Rnd 4 before you start the windows.
- A square with uneven corners. In Rnd 9 each side must use exactly 17 sts between the corner sts. Place a marker in every 18th st of Rnd 8 before you start.
- A flat or droopy bunch. If you sew the grapes straight to the lace without the purple base, the bunch spreads out and cream shows between the grapes.
- Tendrils that do not curl. You must work 2 sc in every ch. Working only 1 sc per ch gives a straight strip.
Ways to Customize This Pattern
- Make green grapes in a soft lime cotton, or mix purple and green bunches across the bedspread.
- Use shaded purple: make the top rows of each bunch in a lighter lilac and the bottom grapes in deep plum for a ripe look.
- Make a baby blanket of 20 squares with the grapes worked as flat bobbles in the circle instead of stuffed balls, so nothing can be pulled off.
- Use a single motif as a coaster or a set of four as a table runner. Rnds 1 to 8 alone make a pretty round coaster.
- Change the border: work the scallops in sage green instead of plum, or add a second row of smaller plum shells for a deeper edge.
Frequently asked questions
With 72 grape motifs of 17 grapes each you need 1,224 grapes, plus 72 bunch bases, 162 leaves, 162 tendrils, 90 stems and 72 vine bars. A throw with 34 grape motifs needs 578 grapes, 76 leaves and 76 tendrils.
Yes. A 5-dc bobble worked straight into the circle is much faster and needs no sewing, but the bunch will be flat. The stuffed balls give the round 3D grapes you see in the photos.
The grapes sit on a round lace circle, and the corner rounds that make it square are lighter and more open. On a draped bed you mainly see the circles; when the blanket lies flat you see the square seams between them.
You can join Rnd 12 of each square to its neighbors as you go, but block the square and add the grapes, leaves and tendrils first. Sewing 17 grapes onto a square that is already part of a big blanket is very hard.
Wash it on a gentle cold cycle inside a large laundry bag and dry it flat, then roll the grapes round with your fingers. Wash a scrap of purple and cream together first so the purple does not bleed onto the cream.
